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By day, Johannesburg can feel like a money-making treadmill, beset by single-minded movers and shakers jostling to do their bit to make this vast, sprawling city Africa’s economic powerhouse. But ask anyone here with a social bone in their body, and they’ll tell you that Jozi is all about its nightlife – although the merry-making frequently straddles both sides of the after-dark divide. And the vast range of bars in Johannesburg means you’ll find something to your taste no matter what your particular poison.
You can slink into sleek, sexy clubs like Taboo in Sandton or head for historic bars like Radium Beer Hall, Jo’burg’s oldest, where top live music acts frequently accompany the warm-hearted atmosphere and cheap Portuguese meals. It’s the radiant, timeless crowd that really makes it tick, though – some of the regulars have been coming for decades.
In the city centre, Braamfontein’s Kitchener’s Carvery Bar is the second-oldest watering hole in town, its pressed ceilings and damask wallpaper offset by DJs spinning a sharp mix of house, hip-hop, funk, and Afrobeat. Part of a burgeoning inner-city revival that’s spurred the arrival of hipsters and their disaffected friends, Kitchener’s is next door to new, cleverly-designed Great Dane, another sure-bet for rubbing shoulders with a hip, yet unpretentious, crowd; a password gets those-in the-know in for free, and there’s a hotdog menu.
Central to Braamfontein’s revived fortunes is Saturday’s Neighbourgoods Market, with artisanal foods on one vast level of a repurposed office block, and clothing, booze and DJ-fuelled beats above – the bopping party that results continues on into the late afternoon, revellers spilling into Kitcheners or Great Dane to carry on into the night.
Nearby, though, is the scene for Jo’burg’s most astonishing—and exclusive—after-hours gathering. Set on the 22nd floor of a Braamfontein highrise, Randlords is reached via a dedicated elevator; you’re whisked up to a congregation of the city’s flashest scenesters sinking premium cocktails and craft beer. In winter, it’s worth wrapping up warmly for impressive views across the neon-twinkling city when the air is crisp, clear, and rain-free. More high-altitude socializing (especially at the sunset hour) happens at the Main Street Life Rooftop Bar on the seventh floor of 12 Decades a themed hotel in the design-fuelled Maboneng Precinct—if the wrap-around panoramas win you over, you can always check into one of the artist-designed, self-catering suites downstairs, and spend the following morning traipsing through Maboneng’s galleries, boutiques, and restaurants.
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About the author: KeithBainKeith Bain
Cape Town-based writer Keith Bain has co-authored guidebooks to India, South Africa, Eastern Europe, Kenya & Tanzania, Ireland, and Italy. He also co-wrote A Hedonist's guide to Cape Town, and is the co-founder of Best Kept (www.bestkeptshhh.com), a bespoke trip-planning company that tailors holidays in India and Africa.